Preparations of the W/O emulsion type with an increased water content, comprising moderately polar lipids and silicone emulsifiers and, if desired, cationic polymers

ABSTRACT

Water-in-oil emulsions  
     (a) with a content of water and optionally water-soluble substances totalling at least 75% by weight, and with a content of lipids, emulsifiers and lipophilic constituents totalling at most 25%, preferably at most 20%, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations,  
     (b) whose oil phase is chosen from the group of lipids or lipid mixtures, where the total polarity of the lipid phase is between 20 and 30 mN/m,  
     (c) comprising at least one interface-active substance, chosen from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and/or alkyldimethicone copolyols,  
     (d) optionally, but particularly when the content of water and water-soluble (hydrophilic) constituents is between 75 and 80% by weight, comprising one or more cationic polymers

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations, in particular those of the water-in-oil type, to processesfor their preparation and to their use for cosmetic and medicinalpurposes.

[0002] The human skin is man's largest organ and performs a number ofvital functions. Having an average area of about 2 m² in adults, it hasa prominent role as a protective and sensory organ. The purpose of thisorgan is to transmit and avert mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemicaland biological stimuli. In addition, it has an important role as aregulatory and target organ in human metabolism.

[0003] The main aim of skin care in the cosmetics sense is to strengthenor rebuild the skin's natural function as a barrier againstenvironmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) andagainst the loss of endogenous substances (e.g. water, natural fats,electrolytes), and also to assist its horny layer in its naturalregeneration ability where damage has occurred.

[0004] If the barrier properties of the skin are impaired, increasedresorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infection bymicroorganisms may result, leading to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

[0005] Another aim of skin care is to compensate for the loss by theskin of sebum and water caused by daily washing. This is particularlyimportant if the natural regeneration ability is inadequate.Furthermore, skin care products should protect against environmentalinfluences, in particular against sun and wind, and delay skin ageing.

[0006] Medicinal topical compositions usually comprise one or moremedicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity,in order to clearly distinguish between cosmetic and medicinal use andcorresponding products, reference is made to the legal provisions in theFederal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics Directive, Foods and DrugsAct).

[0007] Emulsions are generally taken to mean heterogeneous systems whichconsist of two liquids which are immiscible or miscible with one anotheronly to a limited extent, which are usually referred to as phases. In anemulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very finedroplets in the other liquid.

[0008] If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are veryfinely dispersed in water, this is an oil-in-water emulsion (O/Wemulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O/W emulsion isdetermined by the water. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W/Oemulsion, e.g. butter), the principle is reversed, the basic structurebeing determined here by the oil.

[0009] The person skilled in the art is of course aware of a largenumber of ways to formulate stable W/O preparations for cosmetic ordermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointmentswhich can be spread in the range from room temperature to skintemperature, or as lotions and milks, which are more likely flowable inthis temperature range. However, there are only a few formulations inthe prior art which are of sufficiently low-viscosity that they would,for example, be sprayable.

[0010] In addition, low-viscosity preparations of the prior artfrequently have the disadvantage that they are unstable, and are limitedto a narrow field of application or a limited choice of feed materials.Low-viscosity products in which, for example, strongly polar oils—suchas the plant oils otherwise frequently used in commercially availableproducts—are sufficiently stabilized are therefore currently not on themarket.

[0011] The term “viscosity” means the property of a liquid to resist themutual laminar displacement of two neighbouring layers (internalfriction). This so-called dynamic viscosity is nowadays definedaccording to η=t/D as the ratio of shear stress to the velocity gradientperpendicular to the direction of flow. For Newtonian liquids, η is amaterial constant having the SI unit Pascal second (Pa·s) at a giventemperature.

[0012] The quotient ν=η/ρ from the dynamic viscosity η and the density ρof the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity ν and is givenin the SI unit m²/s.

[0013] Fluidity (φ) is the inverse of viscosity (φ=1/η). In the case ofointments and the like, the use value is inter alia codetermined by theso-called tack. The tack of an ointment or ointment base or the likemeans its property to draw threads of varying lengths when a smallsample is removed; accordingly, a distinction is made between short- andlong-stretch substances.

[0014] Whilst the graphical representation of the flow behaviour ofNewtonian liquids at a given temperature produces a straight line, inthe case of so-called non-Newtonian liquids considerable deviationsoften arise, depending on the velocity gradient D (shear rate γ) or theshear stress τ. In these cases, the so-called apparent viscosity can bedetermined which, although not obeying the Newtonian equation, can beused to determine the true viscosity values by graphical methods.

[0015] Falling-body viscometry is suitable only for investigatingNewtonian liquids and gases. It is based on Stokes's law, according towhich, for the falling of sphere through a liquid which flows around it,the dynamic viscosity η can be determined from$\eta = \frac{2{{r^{2}\left( {\rho_{K} - \rho_{F\quad I}} \right)} \cdot g}}{9 \cdot v}$

[0016] where

[0017] r=radius of the sphere, v=fall velocity, ρ_(K)=density of thesphere, ρ_(FI)=density of the liquid and g =acceleration of the fall.

[0018] W/O emulsions with a high water content and any desired viscositywhich moreover have storage stability, as is required for marketableproducts, in particular those with a relatively high water content ofmore than 75% by weight water content and nevertheless having very goodsensory properties continue to be a weighty problem. As a result of thevery high water content of the emulsions, they “break” on the skinparticularly rapidly—sensorily unpleasant—into their main constituents(hydrophilic and hydrophobic components). Solutions have hitherto onlybeen attempted for W/O emulsions comprising predominantly nonpolarlipids. Accordingly, the supply of formulations of this type isextremely low.

[0019] An object of the present invention was to provide preparationswhich can be formulated in virtually any viscosities and which do nothave the disadvantages of the prior art.

[0020] Another object of the present invention was to providepreparations which can be charged with a high content of water-solubleand/or water-miscible substances having cosmetic or dermatologicalactivity, without impairing the galenical quality or other properties ofthe preparations.

[0021] According to K. J. Lissant: The Geometry ofHigh-Internal-Phase-Ratio Emulsions; Journal of Colloid and InterfaceScience 22, 462-468 (1966), emulsions with an internal phase of morethan 70% are defined as so-called high internal phase emulsions. Thepreparation of stable, flowable water-in-oil emulsions with a watercontent of more than 80% is very difficult. In particular, “highinternal phase” W/O emulsions with a very high water content of morethan 85% (“very high internal phase” W/O emulsions) are not accessible.

[0022] The technique of varying the phase volume ratio (i.e.incorporating higher amounts of liquid lipids) which is usually used forwater-in-oil emulsions can, because of the low lipid content, be usedonly to a limited extent in the case of high internal phase W/Oemulsions, or not at all in the case of very high internal phase W/Oemulsions.

[0023] Surprisingly, it has been found that water-in-oil emulsions

[0024] (a) with a content of water and optionally water-solublesubstances totalling at least 75% by weight, and with a content oflipids, emulsifiers and lipophilic constituents totalling at most 25%,preferably at most 20%, based in each case on the total weight of thepreparations,

[0025] (b) whose oil phase is chosen from the group of lipids or lipidmixtures, where the total polarity of the lipid phase is between 20 and30 mN/m,

[0026] (c) comprising at least one interface-active substance, chosenfrom the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and/or alkyldimethiconecopolyols,

[0027] (d) optionally, but particularly when the content of water andwater-soluble (hydrophilic) constituents is between 75 and 80% byweight, comprising one or more cationic polymers,

[0028] overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.

[0029] It is possible and advantageous to choose the total content ofwater and water-soluble substances of the W/O emulsions according to theinvention to be greater than 80% by weight, in particular 85% by weight,in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0030] One example of interface-active substances which are to be usedparticularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention iscetyldimethicone copolyol, which is sold by Th. Goldschmidt AG under thetrade name ABIL® EM 90.

[0031] Furthermore, the emulsifier laurylmethicone copolyol has beenfound to be particularly advantageous, which is obtainable under thetrade name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Coming Ltd.

[0032] The total amount of the interface-active substances usedaccording to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparations is advantageously chosen from the range 0.1-30% by weight,preferably 0.25-5.0% by weight, in particular 0.75-3.5% by weight, basedon the total weight of the preparations.

[0033] Although it is known that W/O emulsions with a high water contentcan be produced using emulsifiers of the type described previously, theknown prior art was nevertheless unable to indicate the route to thepresent invention.

[0034] For the purposes of the present disclosure, a general term forfats, oils, waxes and the like which is sometimes used is the term“lipids”, with which the person skilled in the art is entirely familiar.The terms “oil phase” and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

[0035] Oils and fats differ from one another in their polarity, which isdifficult to define. It has already been proposed to adopt theinterfacial tension towards water as a measure of the polarity index ofan oil or of an oil phase. This means that the lower the interfacialtension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity ofthe oil phase in question. According to the invention, the interfacialtension is regarded as one possible measure of the polarity of a givenoil component.

[0036] The interfacial tension is the force which acts on an imaginaryline one metre in length in the interface between two phases. Thephysical unit for this interfacial tension is conventionally calculatedfrom the force/length relationship and is usually expressed in mN/m(millinewtons divided by metres). It has a positive sign if itendeavours to reduce the interface. In the converse case, it has anegative sign.

[0037] Table 1 below lists moderately polar lipids which areadvantageous according to the invention as individual substances or elseas mixtures with one another. The interfacial tensions towards waterconcerned are given in the last column. It is, however, alsoadvantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polarity and the like,provided it is ensured that the total polarity of the oil phase is inthe claimed range. TABLE 1 Trade name INCI Name (mN/m) Isofol ® 14 TButyl Decanol + Hexyl Decanol + 27.6 Hexyl Octanol + Butyl OctanolIsofol ® 16 Hexyl Decanol 24.3 Eutanol ® G Octyldodecanol 24.8 Cetiol ®OE Dicaprylyl Ether 22.1 Miglyol ® 812 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 21.3Cegesoft ® C24 Octyl Palmitate 23.1 Isopropyl stearate Isopropylstearate 21.9 Estol ® 1540 EHC Octyl Octanoate 30.0 Finsolv ® TN C₁₂₋₁₅Alkyl Benzoate 21.8 Cetiol ® SN Cetearyl Isonoanoate 28.6 Dermofeel ®BGC Butylene Glycol Caprylate/Caprate 21.5 Trivent ® OCG Tricaprylin20.2 MOD Octyldodecyl Myristate 22.1 Cosmacol ® ETI Di-C₁₂₋₁₃ AlkylTartrate 29.4 Miglyol ® 829 Caprylic/Capric Diglyceryl Succinate 29.5Prisorine ® 2036 Octyl Isostearate 29.7 Tegosoft ® SH Stearyl Heptanoate28.7 Abil ® Wax 9840 Cetyl Dimethicone 25.1 Cetiol ® LCCoco-Caprylate/Caprate 24.8 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 22.5 Luvitol ® EHOCetearyl Octanoate 28.6 Cetiol ® 868 Octyl Stearate 28.4

[0038] According to the teaching presented herewith, W/O emulsions areobtainable whose viscosity at 25° C. is less than 5000 mPa·s(=millipascal seconds), in particular less than 4000 mPa·s, preferablyless than 3500 mPa·s (HAAKE Viscotester VT-02).

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase canadditionally—provided the features listed in the patent claims areconsidered—advantageously comprise substances chosen from the group ofesters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbonatoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from thegroup of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain lengthof from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously bechosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate,n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate,2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisyntheticand natural mixtures of such esters, such as, for example, jojoba oil.

[0040] The oil phase can also be chosen advantageously from the group ofbranched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, siliconeoils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched orunbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely thetriglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24carbon atoms, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acidtriglycerides can, for example, be advantageously chosen from the groupof synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunfloweroil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconutoil, palm kernel oil and the like.

[0041] If desired fatty and/or wax components which are to be used inthe oil phase—as secondary constituents in a minor amount—can be chosenfrom the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes andpetrochemical waxes. Examples which are favourable according to theinvention are candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grasswax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax,ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax,spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial grease, ceresin, ozocerite(earth wax), paraffin waxes and microcrystalline waxes.

[0042] Other advantageous fatty and/or wax components are chemicallymodified waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, thoseobtainable under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate),Syncrowax HGLC (C₁₆₋₃₆-fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C(C₁₈₋₃₆ fatty acid) from CRODA GmbH, and also montan ester waxes, Sasolwaxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g.dimethicone copolyol beeswax and/or C₃₀₋₅₀-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylenewaxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats,such as, for example, hydrogenated vegetable oils (for examplehydrogenated castor oil and/or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides),triglycerides, such as, for example, trihydroxystearin, fatty acids,fatty acid esters and glycol esters, such as, for example, C₂₀₋₄₀-alkylstearate, C₂₀₋₄₀-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and/or glycol montanate.Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds, which havesimilar physical properties to the specified fatty and/or waxcomponents, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.

[0043] If desired, the fatty and/or wax components can be present eitherindividually or as a mixture.

[0044] Any desired mixtures of such oil and wax components can also beused advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. In someinstances, it can also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetylpalmitate, as the lipid component of the oil phase.

[0045] Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, hydrogenated polyolefins (e.g.hydrogenated polyisobutene), squalane and squalene can be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

[0046] According to the invention, emulsions which are particularlyadvantageous are those which are characterized in that the oil phaseconsists of at least 50% by weight, preferably of more than 75% byweight, of at least one substance chosen from the group consisting ofvaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil and polyolefins, and of the latter,preference is given to polydecenes.

[0047] The oil phase can advantageously additionally have a content ofcyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils,although it is preferable to use an additional content of other oilphase components apart from the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

[0048] Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) can be usedadvantageously. However, other silicone oils can also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for examplehexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane andpoly(methylphenylsiloxane).

[0049] Surprisingly, it has been found, in particular, that by addingfrom 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.25-1.25%, of suitable cationic polymers,it is possible to prepare stable, flowable “very high internal phaseemulsions” which have excellent sensory properties.

[0050] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives (e.g. Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol), cationic starch,copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternizedvinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole polymers (e.g. Luviquat® from BASF),condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagenpolypeptides (e.g. Lamequat® L from Grünau-Henkel), quaternized wheatpolypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, copolymersof adipic acid with dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine,copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (e.g.Merquat® 550 from Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, cationic chitinderivatives, cationic guar gum (e.g. Jaguar® CBS from Hoechst Celanese),quaternized ammonium salt polymers (e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 from Miranol),and cationic biopolymers, such as, for example, chitosan (averagemolecular weight from 50,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol [determined by means ofgel permeation chromatography] and a degree of deacylation of from 10 to99% [determined by means of ¹H-NMR]).

[0051] The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the inventionin some instances advantageously comprises alcohols, diols or polyols oflow carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethylether or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl ormonobutyl ethers, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers andanalogous products, and also alcohols of low carbon number, e.g.ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerol.

[0052] A particular advantage of the present invention is that itpermits high concentrations of polyols, in particular glycerol, to beused.

[0053] Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained whenantioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According tothe invention, the preparations advantageously comprise one or moreantioxidants. Antioxidants which are favourable but which arenevertheless optional may be all antioxidants which are customary orsuitable for cosmetic and/or dermatological application.

[0054] The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the groupconsisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine,tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles, (e.g. urocanic acid) andtheir derivatives, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine,L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids,carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and theirderivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid),aurothio-glucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid andits derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides,nucleosides and salts) and sulphoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninesulphoximines, homocysteine sulphoximine, buthionine sulphones, penta-,hexa-, heptathionine sulphoximines) in very low tolerated doses (e.g.pmol to μmol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids(e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bileextracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives,unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid,linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinoneand ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate),tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A andderivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoinresin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and itsderivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole,nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiareticic acid,trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and itsderivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium andits derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives(e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide), and the derivatives (salts,esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids)of said active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, oil-solubleantioxidants can be used particularly advantageously.

[0056] A surprising property of the present invention is thatpreparations according to the invention are very good vehicles forcosmetic or dermatological active ingredients into the skin, preferredactive ingredients being antioxidants which are able to protect the skinagainst oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and itsderivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

[0057] The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in thepreparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularlypreferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10% by weight, based onthe total weight of the preparation.

[0058] If vitamin E and/or its derivatives are used as the antioxidantor antioxidants, their respective concentrations are advantageouslychosen from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weightof the formulation.

[0059] If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or theirderivatives are used as the antioxidant or antioxidants, theirrespective concentrations are advantageously chosen from the range of0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0060] The person skilled in the art is of course aware that cosmeticpreparations are in most cases inconceivable without the customaryauxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the invention can, accordingly, also comprise cosmeticauxiliaries, as are customarily used in such preparations, for examplebodying agents, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes,antifoams, dyes, pigments which have a colouring action, thickeners,surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers and/orhumectants, anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredientssuch as vitamins or proteins, sunscreens, insect repellants,bactericides, virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic orkeratolytic substances, medicaments or other customary constituents of acosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols,polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or also electrolytes.

[0061] The latter can be chosen, for example, from the group of saltscontaining the following anions: chlorides, also inorganic oxo elementanions, of these, in particular sulphates, carbonates, phosphates,borates and aluminates. Electrolytes based on organic anions are alsoadvantageous, e.g. lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates,tartrates, citrates, amino acids, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid andsalts thereof and others. Preferred cations of the salts are ammonium,alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron orzinc ions. It does not need to be mentioned that only physiologicallyacceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Particularpreference is given to potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesiumsulphate, zinc sulphate and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Corresponding requirements apply mutatis mutandis to theformulation of medicinal preparations.

[0063] The W/O emulsions according to the invention can be used as abasis for cosmetic or dermatological formulations. The latter can havethe customary composition and be used, for example, for the treatmentand care of the skin and/or the hair, as lip care product, as deodorantproduct and as make-up or make-up remover product in decorativecosmetics or as a sunscreen preparation. For use, the cosmetic anddermatological preparations according to the invention are applied tothe skin and/or the hair in a sufficient amount in a manner customaryfor cosmetics or dermatological compositions.

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic or topicaldermatological compositions can accordingly, depending on theircomposition, be used, for example, as a skin protection cream, cleansingmilk, sunscreen lotion, nourishing cream, day or night cream, etc. Insome circumstances it is possible and advantageous to use thecompositions according to the invention as a base for pharmaceuticalformulations.

[0065] The low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological compositionsaccording to the invention can, for example, be in the form ofpreparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers, squeezablebottles or by means of a pump device, or in the form of a liquidcomposition which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but alsoin the form of an emulsion which can be applied from normal bottles andcontainers.

[0066] Suitable propellants for cosmetic or dermatological preparationswhich can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of thepresent invention are the customary known readily volatile, liquefiedpropellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane),which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed airis also used advantageously.

[0067] The person skilled in the art is of course aware that there arepropellants which are non-toxic per se which would be suitable inprinciple for realizing the present invention in the form of aerosolpreparations, but which must nevertheless be avoided because of theirunacceptable impact on the environment or other accompanyingcircumstances, in particular fluorinated hydrocarbons andchlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

[0068] Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form ofa sunscreen are also favourable. As well as the active ingredientcombinations according to the invention, these preferably additionallycomprise at least one UV-A filter substance and/or at least one UV-Bfilter substance and/or at least one inorganic pigment.

[0069] For the purposes of the present invention, however, it is alsoadvantageous to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations whosemain purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which neverthelesshave a content of UV protectants. Thus, for example, UV-A or UV-B filtersubstances are usually incorporated into day creams.

[0070] UV protectants, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives,also effectively protect the preparations themselves against decay.

[0071] Preparations according to the invention can advantageouslycomprise further substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range,the total amount of filter substances being, for example, from 0.1% byweight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, inparticular from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protectthe hair and/or the skin from the whole region of ultraviolet radiation.They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair or the skin.

[0072] If the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filtersubstances, the latter may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples ofoil-soluble UV-B filters which are advantageous according to theinvention are:

[0073] 3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;

[0074] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;

[0075] esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

[0076] esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2ethylhexyl salicylate,4-isopropyl-benzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

[0077] derivatives of benzophenone, preferably2-hydroxy4-methoxy-benzophenone,2-hydroxy4-methoxy4′-methylbenzophenone,2,2′-di-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone;

[0078] esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxy-benzalmalonate;

[0079] derivatives of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1 3,5-triazine.

[0080] The list of said UV-B filters, which may be used in combinationwith the active ingredient combinations according to the invention is ofcourse not intended to be limiting.

[0081] It can also be advantageous to formulate lipodispersionsaccording to the invention with UV-A filters which have hitherto beencustomarily present in cosmetic preparations. These substances arepreferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

[0082] Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to theinvention can also comprise inorganic pigments which are customarilyused in cosmetics for protecting the skin against UV rays. These areoxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese,aluminium, cerium and mixtures thereof, and modifications in which theoxides are the active agents. Particular preference is given to pigmentsbased on titanium dioxide.

[0083] Further constituents which can be used are:

[0084] fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances,preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number,e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fattyalcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids;

[0085] alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and theirethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol,ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ethers,propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ethers, diethyleneglycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analogous products.

[0086] Preparations according to the invention can also comprise activeingredients (one or more compounds) which are chosen from the group:acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and derivativesthereof, e.g. hydrocortisone-17 valerate, vitamins, e.g. ascorbic acidand derivatives thereof, vitamins of the B and D series, very favourablyvitamin B₁, vitamin B₁₂ and vitamin D₁, but also bisabolol, unsaturatedfatty acids, namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitaminF), in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentanoic acid,docosahexanoic acid and derivatives thereof, chloramphenicol, caffeine,prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of avegetable and animal origin, e.g. evening primrose oil, star flower oilor currant seed oil, fish oils, cod-liver oil or also ceramides orceramide-like compounds etc. It is also advantageous to choose theactive ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for examplepurcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

[0087] The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) inthe preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0088] The examples below serve to illustrate the present inventionwithout limiting it. The numerical values in the examples refer topercentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respectivepreparations.

EXAMPLE 1

[0089] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Caprylic/capric triglycerides 2.0 Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 Octyldodecanol3.0 Glycerol 3.0 NaCl 1.0. Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidantsetc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 2

[0090] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.0 Dicaprylylether 5.5 Paraffinum liquidum 4.5 Glycerol 25.0 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 3

[0091] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 2.0 Dicaprylylether 3.0 Paraffinum liquidum 3.0 Octyldodecanol 3.0 Glycerol 3.0Chitosan 0.5 Glycolic acid 0.3 NaCl 1.0 Perfume, preservatives, dyes,antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 4

[0092] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Dicaprylylether 9.0 Tocopherol acetate 0.5 Glycerol 3.0 Panthenol 0.3 1,3-butyleneglycol 1.0 Serine 0.3 Biotin 0.1 Polyquaternium-10 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 5

[0093] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.0 Dicaprylylether 15.0 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.0 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.0Methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.0 Octyltriazone 0.5 TiO₂ 1.0 ZnO 1.0 Chitosan0.1 Acetic acid 0.1 Glycerol 1.0 NaCl 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes,antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 6

[0094] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 2.0 Dicaprylylether 12.5 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 8.5 Glycerol 10.0 Cationicsilicone polymers 2.5 NaCl 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes,antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 7

[0095] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.0 Coconutfatty acid glycerides 5.0 Dicaprylyl ether 7.5 Octyldodecanol 8.5Glycerol 20.0 Propylene glycol 15.0 Cationic cellulose derivatives 3.5MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad100.00

EXAMPLE 8

[0096] (Emulsion Make-up) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 2.0Octyldodecanol 2.0 C₁₂₋₁₅-Alkyl benzoate 9.0 Squalane 1.0 Distarchphosphate 0.5 Dimethicone 0.5 Glycerol 1.5 Magnesium silicate 1.0 Sodiumchloride 0.7 Chitosan 4.5 Lactic acid 3.5 Mica 0.5 Iron oxide 0.5Titanium dioxide 1.0 Talc 1.0 Cassava starch 0.25 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 9

[0097] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Butyldecanol + hexyldecanol + 12.0 hexyloctanol + butyloctanol Glycerol3.0 Polyquarternium-4 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes,antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 10

[0098] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Hexyldecanol 10.0 Glycerol 3.0 Quaternized wheat polypeptides 1.0 MgSO₄0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 11

[0099] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Octyldodecanol 20.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.2 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 12

[0100] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Dicaprylylether 8.0 Glycerol 3.0 Cationic chitin derivatives 4.0 MgSO₄ 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 13

[0101] (W/O Cream) % by weight Laurylmethicone copolyol 1.5 Octylpalmitate 10.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 14

[0102] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Isopropylstearate 10.0 Chitosan 1.5 Glycolic acid 0.9 Glycerol 3.0 NaCl 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 15

[0103] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Octyloctanoate 15.0 Glycerol 7.5 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes,antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 16

[0104] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5C₁₂₋₁₅-Alkyl benzoates 13.0 Glycerol 5.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 17

[0105] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Cetylstearyl isonoanoate 10.0 Glycerol 3.0 Chitosan 2.5 Lactic acid 1.5NaCl 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad100.00

EXAMPLE 18

[0106] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Laurylmethicone copolyol 1.5 Butyleneglycol caprylate/caproate 9.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 3.0 MgSO₄0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 19

[0107] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Tricaprylin 12.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 20

[0108] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 3.5Octyldodecyl myristate 14.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.0 MgSO₄ 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 21

[0109] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Di-C₁₂₋₁₃-alkyl tartrates 11.0 Glycerol 3.0 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 22

[0110] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5Caprylic/capric diglyceryl succinates 15.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-42.7 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Waterad 100.00

EXAMPLE 23

[0111] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Octylisostearate 12.0 Glycerol 3.0 Chitosan 1.0 Glycolic acid 0.6 NaCl 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 24

[0112] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Stearylheptanoate 8.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-4 3.3 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 25

[0113] (W/O Lotion) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Cocoylcaprylate/caproate 10.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 0.4 MgSO₄ 0.7Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 26

[0114] (W/O Cream) % by weight Cetyldimethicone copolyol 1.5 Isopropylpalmitate 10.0 Glycerol 3.0 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 MgSO₄ 0.7 Perfume,preservatives, dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

1. Water-in-oil emulsions (a) with a content of water and optionallywater-soluble substances totalling at least 75% by weight and with acontent of lipids, emulsifiers and lipophilic constituents totalling atmost 25%, preferably at most 20%, based in each case on the total weightof the preparations, (b) whose oil phase is chosen from the group oflipids or lipid mixtures, where the total polarity of the lipid phase isbetween 20 and 30 mN/m, (c) comprising at least one interface-activesubstance, chosen from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and/oralkyldimethicone copolyols, (d) optionally, but particularly when thecontent of water and water-soluble (hydrophilic) constituents is between75 and 80% by weight, comprising one or more cationic polymers 2.Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that their content ofwater and water-soluble substances is greater than 80% by weight, inparticular 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of thepreparations.
 3. Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in thatthe interface-active substances chosen are cetyldimethicone copolyoland/or laurylmethicone copolyol.
 4. Emulsions according to claim 1,characterized in that the oil phase consists of at least 50% by weight,preferably of more than 75% by weight, of at least one substance chosenfrom the group (butyldecanol+hexyldecanol+hexyloctanol+butyloctanol),hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, octyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl octanoate,C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoates, cetylstearyl isonoanoate, butylene glycolcaprylate/caproate, tricaprylin, octyldodecyl myristate, di-C₁₂₋₁₃-alkyltartrates, caprylic/capric diglycerol succinate, octyl isostearate,stearyl heptanoate, cocoyl caprylate/caproate, isopropyl palmitate,cetylstearyl octanoate, octyl stearate.
 5. Emulsions according to claim1, characterized in that they comprise from 0.01 to 10%, preferably0.25-1.25%, of cationic polymers.
 6. Emulsions according to claim 1,characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) is/are chosen from thegroup consisting of cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch,copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternizedvinypyrrolidone/vinylimidazole polymers, condensation products ofpolyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, quaternizedwheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers,copolymers of adipic acid withdimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine, copolymers of acrylic acidwith dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, polyaminopolyamides, cationicchitin derivatives, cationic guar gum, quaternized ammonium saltpolymers, and cationic biopolymers, such as, for example, chitosan(average molecular weight from 50,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol [determined bymeans of gel permeation chromatography] and a degree of deacylation offrom 10 to 99% [determined by means of ¹H-NMR].